-
The
Natural
Approach
to Flea
Control
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(HealthyPetJournal.com)
It is very
important to be
sure you stay
tuned to “flea
control”. Some
never have a
problem with
fleas while
others battle
daily. In
selecting your
program for flea
control be sure
to consider only
what works and
only what is
safe for your
companions as
well as everyone
else in your
household.
There are three
stages, or areas
to address, in
the flea
eviction
process; the
companion animal
– internally and
externally, the
household
environment, and
the great
outdoors, (or at
least “securing
the
perimeter”).
But before we
wage war, it is
best to know
your enemy.
The Presence of
Fleas
The adult fleas
hopping around
on your
companion and in
your house are
only about 1% of
the entire flea
population in
your home
environment. So
this means that
for every flea
you see, there
are actually at
least 99 more in
one or another
stage of
development
lurking around
the house or
yard. 8-10% of
the population
is in the pupae
(cocoon) stage,
35-37% is in the
larval stage and
50-54% of the
population
consists of flea
eggs.
The adult female
flea can lay
from 10 to 50
eggs a day in
appropriate
weather. Fleas
tend to prefer
warm, somewhat
humid weather:
75-95 degrees
with 60-85%
humidity.
Considering an
adult flea can
live up to
60-100 days, a
single flea
could lay
upwards of 2000
eggs in her
lifetime. And
even if only
half of those go
on to
reproduce…well;
you get the
picture – lots
and lots of
fleas!
“Bug bombs” only
kill the fleas
in the adult and
larval stage at
best. So all
those thousands
of eggs and
little cocoons
are still
lurking and
waiting for the
proper
conditions in
order to emerge
and start the
whole population
explosion all
over again.
Fleas can spread
disease and
tapeworms. The
way the flea
feeds is by
sticking its
pointy little
nose into the
host and
injecting a bit
of “saliva” to
thin the blood
before sucking
it. This is why
so many pets are
allergic to flea
bites and end up
with severe
rashes and hot
spots.
Protecting your
pet from the
Inside Out
Another
important fact
about fleas is
that they prefer
weaker, less
healthy hosts
and very young
puppies and
kittens with
undeveloped
immune systems.
Knowing this, we
can arm our pets
for flea
resistance by
boosting their
health and
immunity. If
you have a flea
problem, this is
the first place
to start.
Diet
is the
foundation of
health. Nothing
you give your
dog or cat can
do as much good
for their health
and immunity as
a proper diet.
Feed the very
best diet you
can. At the
minimum this
means top
quality
processed foods
that do not
contain fillers,
chemical
preservatives,
or food
colorings. No
“by-products” or
“digests”. Meat
should be the
first
ingredient, not
grains. Dogs
can be fed a mix
of canned and
dry foods, but
cats should be
fed only canned
foods if they
are to be fed
processed
diets.
Supplementing
your companion’s
diet can also
help. Essential
Fatty Acids will
help build the
immune system
and boost the
health of the
skin and coat.
Digestive
Enzymes and
Probiotics will
help him get the
most nutrition
from his food
and aid the
digestive
process. Garlic
and B vitamins
tend to make the
animal less
tasty to fleas,
so many people
supplement with
garlic and
brewers yeast,
(a good source
of vitamin B1),
during flea
season to help
their companions
ward off
attacks. (Keep
in mind that
some animals are
allergic to
brewers yeast,
so watch closely
the first week
or so to make
sure the itching
doesn’t get
worse.) The
only flea
control we have
ever used for
our dogs is
Brewer’s Yeast
with Garlic. We
NEVER even see a
flea. It works
for us.
Over-vaccination
is taxing on the
immune system of
dogs and cats.
Educate yourself
about the risks
of too many
vaccinations
before
succumbing to
the usual
pressure to
vaccinate
annually for a
variety of
diseases.
External
Protection
The ultimate
weapon in the
battle with
fleas is the
Flea Comb. It
is the best way
to investigate
whether the
scratching your
dog or cat is
doing is due to
fleas or is just
a little itch.
Run the comb
through your
pet’s hair and
gather a bit of
hair & “dirt”.
Then put this
between two damp
white paper
towels and press
them together –
if the “dirt”
creates rusty
looking spots on
the paper towel,
then there is a
flea somewhere –
most likely a
family of fleas
– on your pet.
If you persist,
you will likely
trap some of
them in the
comb. Drown
them in SOAPY
water – fleas
have been known
to jump out of
plain water.
Flea combing
daily may sound
tedious, but it
is very helpful
while you are
working on the
environmental
control measures
necessary to rid
your world of
fleas. Just
remember that
for every adult
flea you drown
in that soapy
water you are
preventing
generations of
future parasites
from searching
for food in your
home.
There are many
topical sprays &
shampoos out
there touting
their
effectiveness at
killing or
deterring
fleas. Many of
them contain
chemicals and
pesticides
however, that
are not
conducive to
building your
companion’s
immune system.
Cats, in
particular, are
susceptible to
the toxic nature
of many of these
products because
they are
constantly
grooming
themselves and
ingesting
whatever
pesticides they
have been
sprayed with.
You can use
Neem Oil
products or
Flea Away
for dogs and
cats, and
essential oils
for dogs. Neem
oil sprays and
shampoos not
only help repel
fleas, they also
help sooth and
heal irritated
skin. This
essential oil
blend is another
good repellent
for use on
dogs. You can
put a drop on
their collar and
dilute it into a
spray to mist
your dog. Other
essential oils
that seem to be
“flea repellent”
are cedar, tea
tree,
citronella,
eucalyptus and
pennyroyal, (the
last two are
toxic cats).
Combining a
little Neem
spray with your
flea combing is
a great way to
both spread the
Neem Oil
throughout the
animal’s coat as
well as giving
you extra help
with catching
the fleas. Pay
particular
attention to the
neck and chest
on cats and the
top of the
hips/base of the
tail and under
the legs and
belly on
dogs. When
using any
product like
these with a
strong odor,
just keep in
mind that your
dog or cat has a
much stronger
sense of smell
than you do, (as
do the fleas),
so don’t overdo
it. Cats
especially seem
to be sensitive,
so use
sparingly. Many
cats do not like
to be sprayed,
so spray a small
amount of Neem
Protect Spray
onto a cloth and
wipe it on
lightly. We do
not recommend
the use of
essential oils
on cats. One
more precaution
about using
essential oils –
they can
interfere with
the
effectiveness of
homeopathic
remedies, so
don’t use them
if you are
treating your
pet with
homeopathy or
any of the
Homeopet
products.
Flea Away
is a specialized
diatomaceous
earth that is
safe for use on
dogs and cats as
well as around
the home. It
kills fleas by
dehydrating them
– which is not
only non-toxic
to pets, humans
and the
environment, but
fleas cannot
develop an
immunity to it
as they do to
all other
pesticides over
time. There are
many varieties
of diatomaceous
earth
available. Some
have impurities
or contaminants
that make them
less safe than
the type in Flea
Away. Flea Away
is safe if
eaten, so your
cat can lick and
clean herself
all she wants
when treated
with the Flea
Away and it will
not hurt her.
It is a very
fine powder and
a little goes a
long way.
Suggested use is
approximately 1
tsp. per 10 lbs
of body weight.
Using the flea
comb to help
spread the
powder
throughout your
companion’s coat
is helpful.
Bathing your
companion is an
excellent way to
kill fleas. Use
a Neem Shampoo
or an Oatmeal
Shampoo if your
companion has
irritated skin.
You can add a
drop or two of
essential oils
to the oatmeal
shampoo to make
it more “flea
unfriendly”.
Leave the lather
on your pet for
a few minutes to
help smother any
persistent
fleas, and then
RINSE WELL.
Soap residue can
dry the skin and
make the
itchiness
worse.
Why not use flea
collars?
Good question!
The answer is:
flea collars
only repel fleas
around the
animal’s neck
and do very
little for the
rest of the
body. Fleas are
very
resourceful;
they will find a
good spot far
enough away from
that collar to
hang out. Also,
most flea
collars,
especially
anything
non-toxic, are
only effective
for a short
time.
What about
“spot-on” flea
products?
A pesticide is a
pesticide no
matter what you
call it. Use
spot-on flea
products as a
last resort for
animals with
severe flea
allergies. The
most thorough
investigation we
have seen of
these products
was done by
Whole Dog
Journal as
reported in the
article “Are
‘Spot-On’ Flea
Killers Safe?”
in the February,
2002 issue,
(available from
their website
for a fee:
www.wholedogjournal.com).
Here is an
excerpt from
that article:
“All pesticides
pose some degree
of health risk
to humans and
animals.
Despite
advertising
claims to the
contrary, both
over-the-counter
and
veterinarian-prescribed
flea-killing
topical
treatments are
pesticides that
enter our pet’s
internal organs
(livers,
kidneys), move
into their
intestinal
tracts, and are
eventually
eliminated in
their feces and
urine.”
Systemic
pesticides are
NOT a good way
to build an
animal’s immune
system; on the
contrary, they
can only weaken
it. Some people
report that
their pets
appear more
lethargic and
depressed for a
day or more
after applying
spot-on flea
products. More
severe reactions
that have been
reported include
excessive
salivation, skin
rashes,
convulsions,
tremors,
hyperactivity,
stiffened limbs
and lameness.
One more reason
not to use
pesticides –
they end up in
our environment
– including on
your lawn.
Fleas will
develop immunity
to any pesticide
over time. This
is already being
seen with some
of the spot-on
products. They
cannot, however,
develop immunity
to dehydration –
which is how the
diatomaceous
earth and boric
acid products
kill fleas.
What About The
House?
You cannot rid
your companion
of fleas by
treating him or
her alone,
(unless you are
willing to
resort to
pesticides).
Most of the
population lives
and develops in
your house and
yard, not on
your pet.
Treating the
environment is
essential if you
want to win this
war.
Carpets,
Flooring &
Furniture
Vacuuming and
washing the hard
floors often –
daily during the
height of flea
season – is the
least toxic way
to control
fleas. This
will remove most
of the adults,
and some eggs
and larvae.
Keep in mind the
larvae don’t
like light, so
vacuum under
furniture and
around
baseboards
anywhere near
your pet’s
favorite places
to hang out.
Remember to
either vacuum
some Flea Away
or an herbal
flea powder into
the vacuum bag
to kill any
fleas in the
bag, or remove
the bag and
discard it in a
sealed plastic
bag after use.
Some
infestations,
however, are
just too much to
be controlled by
vacuuming alone,
and not everyone
has the time to
clean all the
floors daily.
That’s when we
recommend using
one or more of
the natural
“powders”
available for
ridding your
home of fleas.
The least toxic
substances
available for
this are
diatomaceous
earth and boric
acid products.
Flea Away,
discussed above,
can be used on
carpeting, on
the pet’s
bedding, on
furniture and on
hard floors. It
is a very fine
powder similar
in consistency
to talcum
powder, so it
gets into cracks
and crevices on
hardwood and
linoleum floors
easily. It acts
more quickly
than boric acid
products – a
difference in
the flea
population can
be noticeable in
24 – 48 hours.
Diatomaceous
earth, however,
does not last as
long as the
boric acid
products.
Monthly
applications are
recommended,
especially
during the
height of flea
season.
Boric acid
products, such
as Fleabusters
and Fleago work
in a similar
fashion to the
diatomaceous
earth by
dehydrating the
fleas. When
applied
correctly, they
offer protection
for up to a year
or more as they
remain deep in
the carpet
fibers.
Fleabusters may
also be used on
hard floors as
the powder is
fine enough to
reach into
cracks and
crevices well.
Both products
may be used on
furniture. All
visible powder
must be worked
into the carpet,
floor or
furniture well
with a broom or
rake, and any
remaining
visible powder
should be
vacuumed up.
Boric acid kills
flea larvae, but
is not as
effective at
killing the
adults, so you
may not see the
results for 2-6
weeks while the
adult population
dies off.
During the
initial weeks
after
application, it
is helpful to
vacuum
frequently to
kill the adult
fleas.
With all three
of these flea
control
products, common
sense caution
must be used.
Follow package
directions
carefully. They
are drying
agents, and
therefore
irritate nasal
passages and
lungs if inhaled
directly. Avoid
overzealous
shaking of the
container while
spreading it
onto the floor
so you don’t
create clouds of
dust. If you
have any
questions about
the application
process with any
of our products,
please call or
email and we
will be happy to
help.
Bedding
Don’t forget the
sleeping
quarters! Wash
your pet’s
bedding in hot,
soapy water at
least weekly.
You can even add
some essential
oils or Bite
This! to the
water for extra
flea-zapping
power. Sprinkle
a little Flea
Away onto DRY
bedding and work
it in to help
kill the little
pests while your
companion
sleeps.
Securing the
Perimeter (Your
Yard)
Last, but
certainly not
least, treat the
yard. Remember
that the larvae
don’t like light
– so rake up any
leaves and keep
the grass cut.
Watering can
help drown the
larvae as well.
A majority of
the fleas and
larvae will be
within 50 feet
of your
companion’s
favorite spot to
rest, so focus
on those areas.
Flea Away can be
sprayed onto the
grass with a
hose sprayer to
kill fleas in
the yard.
Application must
be repeated
after rain or
watering.
Beneficial
Nematodes are
another way to
control fleas in
the yard.
Beneficial
nematodes are a
flea parasite,
(mother nature
always has a
balancing
mechanism).
They are tiny
little bugs that
prey on both
adult fleas and
larvae. They
can be applied
with a hose
sprayer or, on a
smaller yard,
with a watering
can. Some
garden centers
and nurseries
carry them or
can order them
for you, as well
as some of the
“natural” pet
stores. An
internet search
will provide
more sources
than you can
sort through.
The Pre-emptive
Strike
One last point
to make: don’t
wait until you
see fleas on
your companion
to treat your
environment! If
you live in an
area with a
predictable flea
season – treat a
month before it
starts. If you
live in the
south where flea
season is every
season, start
now and plan to
treat your home
regularly.
Using natural
methods is a bit
more work than
dropping a spot
of pesticides on
their back, but
in the long run
your companion
and your
environment will
be healthier for
your efforts.
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